How to Upholster a Wingback Chair

On this page (8 sections)

1. What tools and fabric do you need before you start?
2. How do you strip the chair without losing the pattern?
3. How do you check the frame and replace worn foam?
4. How do you cut the new fabric from the old panels?
5. In what order do you staple the new fabric?
6. How do you handle tufting and seams?
7. How do you finish the bottom and clean up?
8. Is reupholstering a wingback chair worth it?

To upholster a wingback chair, strip the old fabric and keep each piece as a pattern, check the frame and replace tired foam, then staple new fabric in a set order. The wings and arms are the fiddly parts, so work slowly and pull fabric firm but not tight.

This guide walks through how to upholster a wingback chair one layer at a time. It suits a first reupholstery project if you allow two or three weekends and keep track of every panel you remove.

What tools and fabric do you need before you start?

Gather a staple gun, staples, a tack puller, fabric, foam, batting and a sharp knife before you touch the chair. A clean workspace and a camera save more time than any single tool.

You'll need 5 to 7 yards of 54-inch fabric for a standard wingback. Add 10 to 15 percent for pattern matching, and buy a little extra if the chair has deep tufting.

Pick a tightly woven upholstery fabric rather than a light quilting cotton. For the base, keep foam and batting on hand in case the old layers crumble.

A pneumatic staple gun is faster, but a manual one works for a single chair. Have a magnet or tray ready for staples and a bag for the old ones.

If you haven't settled on a chair to recover, what a wingback chair is explains the shape and why the wings matter for the fabric layout. An old chair with a sound frame is the best candidate; a wobbly one needs repair first.

How do you strip the chair without losing the pattern?

Remove the fabric one layer at a time and label every piece. The old fabric is your free pattern, so treat it as carefully as the new material.

Start at the bottom and work up. Pull staples with a tack puller or pliers, and keep the fabric intact where you can.

Photograph each layer as it comes off, because the order you remove things is the order you'll rebuild. Label panels with chalk or tape: inside back, seat, outside arm, wing, and so on.

Note the direction of the weave and any pattern repeat. Keep the old fabric flat under a board so it doesn't curl.

Expect hidden staples and tacks along the frame edges. Watch for sharp ends, and wear gloves when you reach into the arms.

Bag the old foam and batting as you go so the room stays clear.

How do you check the frame and replace worn foam?

Press on the frame, webbing and springs before adding any new fabric. A soft or squeaky base will show through the new cover within months.

Check the joints at the legs and arms for movement. Tighten or reglue loose joints and replace split webbing.

If the springs are broken or sagging, fix them now; the seat fabric hides the problem later.

Replace foam that has crumbled or gone flat. New foam of the same thickness keeps the seat height and the wing shape.

Add a fresh layer of batting over the foam to soften edges and hide seams.

If the original seat feels thin, a slightly denser foam can firm it up. Keep the original thickness in mind so the arms and back panels still fit.

Save any reusable foam that is still springy.

How do you cut the new fabric from the old panels?

Lay each old panel on the new fabric and cut around it, following the weave and the pattern repeat. Add a 1 to 2 inch margin on every edge for pulling and stapling.

Match the pattern at the seams before you cut. For a print, line up the motif across the back and the seat so it reads as one piece.

Cut the largest panels first and save the scraps for the wings and arms. Mark the top and bottom of each piece so you don't flip it by mistake.

Chalk works well, and so does a removable fabric marker. Keep the nap or pile running the same way on every panel.

Cut one panel at a time and test-fit it before stapling. Trimming is easier than adding fabric back.

A sharp rotary cutter or heavy shears gives cleaner edges than a craft knife.

In what order do you staple the new fabric?

Staple from the middle of each edge outward, and work in this order: inside back, seat, outside arms and back, wings, then trim. This sequence hides raw edges and keeps the pull even.

Start with the inside back, stapling at the top center and working down and out. Pull the fabric firm, but stop before it stretches the weave.

Then cover the seat, tucking the front edge under the frame.

Move to the outside arms and outside back next. Pull these panels tight so the chair looks crisp from behind.

The wings come after the arms so their seams tuck under the arm edge.

Staple close together, about 1/2 inch apart, and keep rows neat. Fold corners rather than cutting them, and trim excess fabric only after the edge is secure.

A staple remover and spare staples nearby save a trip when one goes in crooked.

How do the wings and arms differ from the back?

The wings need two layers of fabric and a careful seam at the top, so take your time here. Pad the wing frame with foam or batting before the cover goes on.

Cut the wing fabric with the pattern running the same way as the back. Pull it over the front and back of the wing, then staple on the inner edge where the seam hides.

Fold the corner at the top of the wing so the point stays sharp.

The arms are simpler but need a straight line. Pull the fabric over the arm cap and staple underneath.

Add a strip of cardboard or tack strip along the front edge for a clean fold.

Check both sides as you go; wingback chairs are seen from the side as much as the front. A helper who can step back and look is useful here.

How do you handle tufting and seams?

If the chair has button tufting, mark the button positions before you staple the back. Pull the fabric into the folds and anchor each button with strong thread or twine.

Lay the old back panel over the new one and mark the button holes with chalk. Pull the fabric evenly into the diamond folds, then fix each button from behind.

A long upholstery needle helps in deep seats.

For flat seams, sew or glue a welt cord and staple it along the edge. Piping hides the staple line and gives the chair a finished look.

Keep the cord straight and pull it taut as you go.

Skip tufting if your chair didn't have it. Adding buttons to a plain back changes the shape and makes the job much harder.

Match the original style rather than improvising.

How do you finish the bottom and clean up?

Staple a dust cover over the underside and trim all loose threads to finish the job. Then check the whole chair from a few steps back before the room fills up again.

Fold the edges of the dust cover under for a clean line. Pull it taut so it doesn't sag, and add glides or felt pads to the feet.

Vacuum the new fabric with a brush attachment to lift loose fibers. Fresh fabric can pick up dust and small marks during the job.

A quick pass with {{product B0DXK59VYJ | kanfort's no-rinse foam lifts everyday marks from fabric without soaking the new cover.}} keeps the seat looking clean.

Test any cleaner on a hidden spot first. If a spot appears later, the {{product B09MLYW12S | BFWood's soft boar bristles work a spot remover into the weave without pilling it.}} helps loosen it gently.

Use light strokes on the arms and wings, where the fabric sits over padding.

Is reupholstering a wingback chair worth it?

Yes, if the frame and springs are sound and the fabric is the only real problem. A well-built wingback can outlast several covers, and recovering it costs less than a new chair of the same quality.

Skip the job if the frame is cracked, the springs are broken in several places, or the chair wobbles when you sit. Those repairs push the project past the value of the chair.

A professional quote is worth getting if the frame needs work.

If comfort is your main worry, whether wingback chairs are comfortable covers seat depth and support. For a ready-made option instead of a project, browse wingback accent chairs and compare shapes.

The {{product B0H1MSXC21 | YOLENY's mid-century wingback has a solid wood frame and a linen cover, for anyone who wants the look without the staple gun.}} shows what a finished chair can look like. Reupholstering your own is still the cheaper path when the frame is solid.

To sum up how to upholster a wingback chair: strip carefully, save your patterns, fix the frame, and staple in order. Pull fabric firm, finish the bottom, and clean the cover before the chair goes back in the room.

If you'd rather build from scratch, how to make a wingback chair covers the frame side of the project.

Our score weighs specs, features and buyer feedback against what you're shopping for.

Frequently asked questions

How much fabric does a wingback chair need?

Plan on 5 to 7 yards of 54-inch upholstery fabric for a standard wingback. Chairs with deep tufting or a large skirt need more.

Measure your saved panels and add 10 to 15 percent for pattern matching and mistakes.

Can a beginner upholster a wingback chair?

Yes, but the wings and arms make it harder than a plain dining chair. Strip slowly, photograph each layer, and keep every piece.

Practice on the seat first, and allow two or three weekends for the whole job.

What staples should I use for upholstery?

Use 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch upholstery staples in a pneumatic or manual staple gun, depending on the frame and foam depth. Stainless or galvanized staples resist rust.

Match staple length to the wood so they hold without poking through the outside.

Do I need to remove the old fabric?

Yes. Old fabric hides frame damage, sagging webbing and worn foam.

Removing it gives you flat patterns and a sound base, and it lets you fix loose joints before the new fabric goes on.

How do you finish the bottom of a wingback chair?

Staple a dust cover or cambric cloth over the underside, folding the edges under for a clean line. Trim excess fabric and staple the cover taut so it doesn't sag.

Add glides or felt pads to the feet before the chair goes back in the room.