How to Make a Wingback Chair

On this page (9 sections)

1. What do you need before you start making a wingback chair?
2. How do you measure a wingback chair before you build?
3. How do you build the wood frame for a wingback chair?
4. How do you support the seat in a wingback chair?
5. How do you pad the back and wings of a wingback chair?
6. How do you cut and sew the upholstery for a wingback chair?
7. How do you attach the fabric to a wingback chair?
8. How do you finish the legs and trim on a wingback chair?
9. Is making a wingback chair worth it?

To make a wingback chair, build or buy a solid wood frame, webbing or springs for the seat, pad the back and wings, then cut and sew the fabric and staple it on. Add legs and trim last.

It's a real project, but the order matters more than the skill.

Plan your build in three stages: the frame, the padding and the cover. Each stage only works if the one before it is solid.

Below is the order we would follow, with the measurements and materials that matter at each step.

What do you need before you start making a wingback chair?

Gather a frame, wood stock, webbing or springs, foam and batting, fabric, a sewing machine, and a staple gun before cutting anything. A worktable and clamps help, and so does a sharp pair of fabric shears.

For the frame, you can build from kiln-dried hardwood or start from a stripped antique chair. Hardwood takes glue and screws well, and a stripped frame saves you the joinery.

Either way, the seat rails, back posts and wing supports need to be square and firm.

Tools you'll want close by include a drill, a saw, a staple gun with 1/4 to 3/8 inch staples, a sewing machine rated for upholstery fabric, and a tape measure. Small extras like piping cord, a tack hammer and card or hardboard for the arm panels come in later.

How do you measure a wingback chair before you build?

Measure a chair you already find comfortable, then copy its seat height, depth and back angle. That gives you real numbers instead of guessing from a photo.

Key dimensions for a standard wingback are a seat height of about 18 inches, a seat depth of 20 to 22 inches and a seat width of 20 to 24 inches. The wings sit at the top third of the back and wrap forward at shoulder height.

Overall height usually runs 38 to 45 inches.

Write down each measurement and check it against your room and doorway. A chair that can't fit through the door is a finished problem.

For the definition and the classic shape, see what a wingback chair is before you finalize the frame plan.

The Komelon SL2825 locks its blade automatically as you pull it out, and the 1 inch nylon coated blade has stud markings every 16 inches. Its case is ABS plastic with a rubber over mold, so a drop onto a concrete floor is less likely to break it.

Accuracy is rated to within 0.03 inches.

How do you build the wood frame for a wingback chair?

Build the frame as a box for the seat with two back posts and two wing boards, glued and screwed at every joint. Square is the whole game, because a twisted frame shows up in the fabric later.

Start with the seat rails, joined into a rectangle with corner blocks. Add front legs or leg mounts, then stand the back posts in the rear corners with a slight backward rake.

Fix a curved top rail between them.

The wings are flat boards or bent plywood shaped to your pattern and screwed to the back posts. Add an arm rail on each side from the back post to the front stile.

Cut corner blocks into the seat box to keep the rectangle square under load.

Sand the frame smooth where fabric will touch it. Any splinter or screw head left proud will wear through the fabric from behind over time.

How do you support the seat in a wingback chair?

Support the seat with woven webbing or sinuous springs stretched across the seat rails, then top it with a foam cushion. Webbing suits a first build; springs give a deeper sit but take more skill to tie down.

For webbing, stretch strips front to back and side to side in an interlocking weave, stapled and folded over the rail edges. Pull each strip tight enough that it barely deflects under your hand.

A webbing stretcher helps.

For springs, clip sinuous springs across the rails and tie them at the crossings so they don't shift. Cover the springs with a layer of burlap and a thin foam pad before the seat cushion goes on.

How do you pad the back and wings of a wingback chair?

Pad the back and wings with a layer of foam or cotton batting under a soft top layer, shaped so the wings stay firm but not hard. The padding fills the shape; the fabric only covers it.

Cut foam for the back panel to the inner frame size. For the wings, cut a thinner foam, about 1 inch, so the wing stays slim and doesn't bulge.

Wrap batting over the foam and staple it to the frame edges.

The arms need their own roll. A foam roll or a shaped pad over the arm rail gives the rounded top that reads as a wingback.

Pull the batting tight and staple it underneath so it can't bunch when the fabric goes on.

How do you know the padding is right before you sew?

Sit in the frame after padding and check the seat height and the arm height with your body, not a tape measure. This is the last easy moment to change the foam.

If the seat feels low, add a foam layer. If the wings crowd your shoulders, thin the wing foam or move the boards out.

A wingback should feel enclosing, not tight. For how the shape affects comfort, our guide to whether wingback chairs are comfortable covers the seat depth and back angle to aim for.

How do you cut and sew the upholstery for a wingback chair?

Cut and sew the cover in separate panels for the seat, back, wings and arms, then join them with piping or seams. Pattern pieces made from paper or scrap cloth save fabric.

Drape paper over each padded section and mark the seams with a pencil. Cut the paper flat and add a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

For a patterned fabric, add extra for matching the repeat across the wings and back.

Sew the panels with a heavy-duty machine and upholstery thread. Add piping around the wing edges and arm fronts for a crisp line.

Leave openings where staples will attach the cover to the frame.

Plan on 6 to 8 yards of 54 inch fabric for a standard chair. A patterned fabric or a large repeat pushes that up.

Buy the whole amount in one order so the dye lot matches.

How do you attach the fabric to a wingback chair?

Attach the fabric from the bottom up and from the back forward, stapling it to the frame and pulling it taut as you go. Work one panel at a time so the fabric stays even.

Start with the back panel and the underside of the seat. Pull the fabric down and staple it to the lower rail.

Then move to the wings, the arms and finally the front seat edge.

Pull each staple line tight enough to remove wrinkles but not so hard that the foam compresses. Trim excess fabric close to the staples.

Fold and staple the raw edges under as you finish each section.

How do you finish the legs and trim on a wingback chair?

Finish with wood legs, a dust cover on the base and trim over the staple lines. These details hide the build and make the chair look bought, not homemade.

Screw tapered wood legs into leg plates or corner blocks under the seat. Four legs are standard; some designs use a fifth center leg for a wide seat.

Check that the chair sits level before you tighten the last screws.

Staple a dust cover over the underside to hide webbing and staples. Add braid or nailhead trim over visible staple lines on the arms and wings.

Trim covers small mistakes and gives the edges a clean line.

How do you clean the fabric once the chair is built?

Clean the fabric with a soft brush and a mild detergent, and blot spills before they soak in. A boar bristle brush works into the weave without pulling threads.

The BFWood brush has a curved wooden handle and 0.6 inch soft boar bristles. Work a little detergent into the stain, then blot with a clean cloth.

Keep the wooden handle dry and hang the brush by its loop after use. It suits linen and cotton covers, but not silk or wool.

What does a finished wingback look like?

Use the Mid-Century Wingback Armchair as a size and proportion reference if you want a modern version to compare against. Its frame and lines show how the classic shape scales down for a smaller room.

It has a solid wood frame, a wing back and rounded arms, with a seat depth of 20 inches and a maximum weight recommendation of 300 pounds. It sits on tapered wood legs.

Compare its 38 inch height with your planned chair before you cut the back posts. For finished options, see our picks for the best wingback accent chairs.

Is making a wingback chair worth it?

It's worth it if you want a custom fabric, a specific size or the satisfaction of the build; buy one if you mainly want a chair this month. The upholstery is the hard part, not the frame.

A homemade chair wins on fit: you can match the seat depth to your room and the fabric to your decor. It also lets you revive a stripped frame that would otherwise be thrown out.

The trade-off is time and the cost of tools if you don't own them already.

If you're unsure the style still works in a modern room, read whether wingback chairs are out of style before you commit fabric. Then decide: build if you have 20 to 40 hours and a sewing machine, buy if you need the chair in place this week.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to make a wingback chair?

Plan on 20 to 40 hours across several sessions, more for your first one. Frame building takes the longest, and the upholstery step needs the most patience because the fabric has to wrap tight around curved wings and rolled arms.

Do I need a sewing machine to upholster a wingback chair?

Yes for most methods. The fabric panels, boxing strips and piping are stitched together before stapling.

A heavy-duty machine handles upholstery fabric and piping cord; a basic machine works on lighter cotton or linen but struggles with thick velvet or leather.

Can I use a ready-made chair frame?

Yes. A stripped antique chair or a bare frame from a woodworker saves the joinery work and still gives you the full upholstery job.

Inspect the joints for wobble and the seat webbing for sag before you buy it.

How much fabric do I need for a wingback chair?

Allow about 6 to 8 yards for a standard armchair when fabric is 54 inches wide. Check your measurements against a cutting plan and add 15 percent for pattern matching and mistakes, especially on patterned fabric.